The Pleasure of Conversing with the Chef and Observing His Signature Skills

Yakitori is skewered chicken that is grilled till it's fragrant. It sounds simple but actually takes real skill to make. Every detail — from the butchering to the skewering to the order in which the pieces are prepared — influences its flavor. "Slice it too much, and the moisture will escape from the surfaces during grilling. Then it's not juicy. I slice the meat to cook evenly and be beautiful to look at — I can tell how at a glance — and I focus on keeping the cuts to a minimum," says Hotate Shigekazu, Ginza Torishige's third-generation owner.

Ginza Torishige began as a food stall in a Ginza back alley in 1931. The owners raised five children through the turmoil of the war and postwar years. In its second generation, it gained such a reputation that it numbered even movie stars among its fans. Today, it boasts three generations of regular customers and many international visitors.

Now almost 100 years old, Ginza Torishige still purchases whole chickens and each morning dresses the amount needed for the day. This freshness and the chef's skill ensure that every bite is exquisitely moist, especially the chicken wings! It's when your mouth fills with the piping hot juices that you realize the true joy of yakitori. Reservations accepted only through your hotel. Reserve early: the restaurant is always popular.

The chicken wings. "First remove the skewers and bones and savor the flavorful parts around the bones. Then dig into the chunks of meat that remain," says Hotate.

The restaurant seats 38 and is often fully booked. Sit at the counter for a close-up view of the chef's skills.